Anok Yai – The supermodel revolutionising hair culture on the runway
Straight, curly, or wavy hair are culturally white hairstyles which have been viewed in real life and on the runway since fashion’s inception. Black hairstyles such as cornrows, bantu knots, or afros are ubiquitously found in real life and yet, they often fail to be embraced on the runway. Supermodel Anok Yai rejects this ostracizing phenomenon, publicly stating how she will not have her natural hair damaged to emulate White women hairstyles. She articulates how she “refuse[s] to do any shows or shoots with straight hair, it’s afro or cornrows or nothing”.
Yai, of Sudanese background, was born in Egypt and immigrated to the United States at an early age. Yai was studying biochemistry at Plymouth University, when by happenstance a photo was taken of her and gained virality on social media. Her effortlessly stylish attire coupled with her otherworldly beauty captivated thousands across the globe. In 2018 she signed with the modelling agency Next Models and four months later she became the second Black woman to open a Prada show, since Naomi Campbell in 1997. Yai’s long legs, captivating presence and beauty established her as one of the most sought-after models of this generation. She has excelled in both commercial and editorial shoots, participated in more than 260 shows, and has won a model of the year award. She currently has over 1 million followers on her Instagram account and was just revealed as the current muse for Acne Studios 2023 campaign.
It is hardly surprising that concealed amid the vastness of the modelling industry, lies a community beset with numerous issues. Regardless, Yai has found fame within that field, and regularly speaks out on social justice problems which could jeopardize her career. Yai is a darker-skinned model, who because of her ethnicity faces more hardships than her white colleagues. Yai states that when she first began modelling “brands didn’t know what to do with my hair and my skin”. Naomi Campbell, one of the most internationally recognized Black supermodels, rarely showcased her natural hair, opting to wear wigs and extensions throughout her career. She was diagnosed with traction alopecia, stemming from years of wearing wigs and extensions. This issue has similarly plagued the entertainment industry, with Black actors like Tati Gabrielle and Yahya Abdul-Mateen speaking out on the inadequate hairstyling and beauty teams they have access to.
To truly grasp an understanding on this issue, let’s travel back to the 2018 Fall collections, when there were little to no Black hairstyles represented on the runway. Alexander Wang’s collection showcased 1 Black hairstyle out of the 45 looks presented that season, Gucci had 3 out of 90 and Chanel with 5 out of the 83 looks. These collections were not all that long ago; and yet they all displayed the startling underrepresentation of Black hairstyles on the runway.
From a much more sanguine standpoint, the 2023 Paris Fashion Week illustrated the growing presence of Black hairstyles on the runway. Miu Miu, Y/Project, Valentino, and many more recognizable brands appropriately showcased Black hairstyles. Among the midst of Fashion Week 2023 Yai has been photographed on multiple occasions walking down runways in her afro or in cornrows. Comments left behind by users on social media platforms praise Yai’s actions and comments, which have been viewed by millions online. This representation in the fashion world is significant to the newer generation as it highlights the power and the glamour associated with Black hairstyles. The intrinsic appeal of fashion lies in its engagement and exploration of diverse hair textures. For once, I am hopeful that we will eventually reach universal inclusion in the fashion world, which is why we must commend those like Anok Yai who stand to make a difference.
