Wicked: Behind the Magic of Paul Tazewell’s Costume Design

The long-awaited movie adaptation of Wicked has finally arrived in UK cinemas (November 22, 2024), sparking excitement among fans of the iconic musical. At the heart of this cinematic retelling are Ariana Grande as Glinda and Cynthia Erivo as Elphaba, two globally renowned performers who bring the beloved characters’ complex friendship to life. Adding to the magic is the creative brilliance of Paul Tazewell, the visionary behind the film’s enchanting costumes.

Paul Tazewell: The Visionary Behind the Costumes

Paul Tazewell is a distinguished costume designer with a career spanning Broadway, dance, opera, and television. His accolades include a Tony Award, an Emmy Award, and an Academy Award nomination, making him an ideal choice to bring Wicked to life. Reflecting on this opportunity, Tazewell described it as:

“A once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.”

Having worked on several productions of The Wiz starting in high school, Tazewell has been immersed in The Wizard of Oz culture for years. “I’ve probably done five, six productions of The Wiz,” he shared in an interview with Harper’s Bazaar. “I’ve been immersed in this culture and the world of The Wizard of Oz for such a long time.”

Tazewell’s deep connection to The Wizard of Oz universe and his extensive experience in costume design have been instrumental in bringing the world of Wicked to life on the big screen.

Crafting Glinda and Elphaba

Paul Tazewell approached the contrasting personas of Glinda and Elphaba with meticulous Crafting Glinda and Elphaba. He approached the contrasting personas of Glinda and Elphaba with meticulous craftsmanship and symbolic representation. He explained:

“My priority was creating a balance between Elphaba and Glinda. They dress the way that they, as young women, deal with life.”

For Glinda, Tazewell embraced both extravagance and playfulness. Tazewell shared his thoughts on Glinda’s character, describing her as a sartorial expert who wields femininity and elegance as powerful tools to her advantage. One standout creation is the Bubble Dress, a modern take on the iconic pink gown worn by Billie Burke in the original The Wizard of Oz. The dress features layers of silk organza, nylon organza, and crinoline cones, spiralled to support the fabric. The material is printed with a bubble pattern, foiled, and adorned with beads and sequins to create a translucent, ethereal effect.

“We wanted it to emanate a certain amount of light,” Tazewell explained. “For her crown, I imagined bubbles swirling around her head.”

In contrast, Elphaba’s costumes reflect her deep connection to nature and internal struggles. “I was looking at textures of roots, bark, mushrooms — all those things you find when you turn over a log in a forest,” Tazewell told Teen Vogue. Her signature black palette symbolizes both her grief and her enduring connection to the loss of her mother, an event that profoundly shapes her identity.

Tazewell didn’t just bring Glinda’s and Elphaba’s styles to life—he also added depth to Fiyero, played by Jonathan Bailey. His Oz Dust Ballroom costume features tribal-inspired embroidery and military elements that nod to his princely heritage.

“The embroidery gives it a North African or Southern Spanish quality,” Tazewell explained, “which aligns with who Fiyero is and who he becomes.”

The Technology Behind the Magic

Tazewell’s designs for Wicked are a testament to the seamless integration of artisanal craftsmanship and cutting-edge technology. His team utilized 3D printing to create intricate, wearable elements such as Glinda’s crown and Elphaba’s hat. “It’s a process I couldn’t do 20 years ago. Now, with technology, you can imagine what it is and bring it to life,” he shared.

Tazewell’s Legacy

Drawing on his years of experience and a willingness to embrace innovation, Tazewell has created costumes that are as unforgettable as the story itself. As audiences return to the Land of Oz, one thing is clear: the visual magic of Wicked is nothing short of spellbinding