Hedi Slimane’s Departure from Celine: a Musical Chairs of Creative Directors
On October 2nd, it was announced that the French photographer-turned-designer Hedi Slimane would leave Celine after almost seven years as Creative Director. This came as no surprise to those in the industry—there had been speculation for months prior to Slimane’s departure.
A Creative Director stepping down is neither new nor unusual, but in recent years, the switch-around has become a game of musical chairs. All within the last year: Sean McGuire took over from Sarah Burton at McQueen, Adrian Appiolaza moved to Moschino, Virginie Viard stepped down from Chanel, Kim Jones left Fendi, Alessandro Michele, from Gucci, is now at Valentino, and now, of course, Hedi Slimane has left Celine. There is a concern that the rate of departures is linkedto the ever-quickening pace of the trend cycle. After all, the purpose of a new Creative Director is to breathe new life and creativity into a brand—crucial for survival and beneficial for marketing. Fashion houses now face greater pressure to entice buyers. They are more than overlords of what is trending, they also operate as a trickle-down economy, as famously explained by Miranda Priestly in The Devil Wears Prada. They report to shareholders and fight against increasing costs, competition, and media coverage—there is no room for mistakes.
As a Creative Director, the job is not only designing seasonal collections but also spearheading the brand’s entire creative vision. It is a role that requires garment-making abilities, a great imagination, and business knowledge. A Creative Director can influence everything from the design of the clothes down to the runway. For instance, Matthieu Blazy of Bottega Veneta recently assigned animal-shaped beanbags to guests at Veneta’s Spring/Summer 2025 show, continuinghis playful vision through the collection, each animal supposedly matching each guest’s “vibe”. Alongside this, a Creative Director must also consider a fashion house’s values and heritage, which sometimes conflicts with their ideas for the brand.
Slimane has a history of making fashion houses his own. While Creative Director of YSL in 2012, he removed the ‘Yves’ from the brand name. Even at Celine, originally styled as Céline, Slimane dropped the accent over the ‘E’ before of his first show. This caused an uproar, with Slimane accused of erasing the brand’s French heritage. Though it may seem fickle, in fashion, the devil is in the details. To understand its significance, imagine someone removing a letter from your name or changing the pronunciation—suddenly, you feel like a new person with a new identity.
Heidi Slimane leaves Celine after seven years as Creative Director/Photo Credits: Dominique Charriau via Gettyimages.com
Creating his own distinct Celine is quite an accomplishment, especially since his predecessor was the industry favorite, Pheobe Philo. Philo was renowned for empowering women in a way that freed them from sexualization. Celine has always catered to women, initially dedicated to luxe sportswear, but Philo modernized the brand with unmatched elegance, pioneering ‘quiet luxury’. Today, brands like The Row, owned by the Olsen twins, emulate this style, while lesser brands like Molly Mae’s Maebe, attempt to replicate it. Philo has always been and continues to be, about timelessness and practicality, designing for women in a way that reflects her values as both a business owner and mother.
Slimane presented a contrast to Philo’s aesthetic at Celine. His designs took a cheekier approach. His ‘working women’ were still professional but younger and more tech-savvy. Slimane showed more feathers and sparkles—less work, more play. Like Philo, Slimane also achieved commercial success; LVMH, Celine’s parent company, reported a record year in sales under Slimane, making clear his departure wasn’t due to a lack of success. Business of Fashion reported that it was ultimately boardroom disagreement that led to his exit, with Slimane demanding “A historically high salary” and “Royalties on all manner of creative outputs”.
Given his vision and needs, it may be time for the French designer to start his brand, following in the footsteps of Phoebe Philo, who has launched her label since Celine. Slimane is not short of talent and is skilled at styling, design, and photography. He also has experience at various fashion houses. But there are suggestions he might move to another French legacy brand, possibly Chanel, which has yet to announce Virginie Viard’s replacement. Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel’s previous Creative Director, is said to have admired Slimane.
As for the future of Celine, Michael Rider, previously Creative Director at Polo Ralph Lauren, has been chosen to replace Slimane. It will be interesting where Rider takes Celine’s working women next. For those who dismiss or don’t understand the constant switching of Creative Directors, it is comparable to the movement of football players, or betteryet, managers. Just like fans might wonder if Thomas Tuchel, the new manager after Gareth Southgate’s resignation, can “finally bring it home”, those in fashion watch to see if a Creative Director will excel in a new fashion house. One wonders if it will respect a brand’s heritage while taking it to new heights. Will Rider succeed in following the legacies of Philo and Slimane at Celine? And where will Heidi Slimane go next?
