Maison Margiela’s iconic 2024 couture show

“Best couture show in years”

The recent Maison Margiela spring 2024 couture show has left many in awe, offering a unique and other-worldly experience that has transcended the ordinary, and undoubtedly, it will be remembered as a groundbreaking moment in fashion history. I don’t know about anybody else, but I’m certainly hoping this will mark the re-emergence of a 90s inspired performative and theatre-like runway era.

Creative director, John Galliano, is renowned for his bold fashion statements, actively pushing boundaries and embracing gender fluidity within his designs. He never fails to experiment with fabrics and new ingenious dressmaking techniques; this year he showcased what he calls ‘emotional cutting’ and ‘retrograding’. Both being methods in which Galliano attempts to convey emotion and feeling through honouring the saying that fashion is an art that communicates. He didn’t just stop at astounding us there, with a more diverse and inclusive cast of models with the likes of Leon Dame, Gwendoline Christie, Nyakier Buong and Jill Kortleve to showcase the collection—something typically overlooked by other designers. Rather, he executed it with such seamless grace that it begs the question: why isn’t this already the standard?

Picture this: beneath the majestic Alexandre III bridge in Paris, marionette-like porcelain dolls walking across the slick rainwater surface with their arms flailing, illuminated by the very first full moon of the year. Every shadow appears to hold secrets; there’s a sense of unease, keeping you constantly on your toes. The setting itself immediately transports the audience to the very “underbelly of Paris,” exploring dark sensuality in an age of relentless hedonism. The fine line between pleasure and sadness in the deep revels of Parisian nightlife has been accurately captured by Galliano—both through the avant-garde clothing as well as the models themselves. Vulnerability, distrust, and hope can be inferred through the movements and storytelling of the models. Some broken, tattered, and abused while others untouched still in plastic, unharmed from the cruel ways of the world. The master behind the show has not shied away from exploring sensuality and sadness through these techniques in a way to tell a story, where he fuses the “romantic with macabre.” The entire show felt like something straight out of Brassaï’s photography from the 1930s where he captured the underworld of Paris—featuring prostitutes, thrill-seekers, pimps, and thieves in their element. As phrased by Metal writer, the show “explores the rawest side of Paris nightlife, where the intimacy has a level of danger to it, crimes and thefts happen in the name of love”.

“Watching the show was like being devoured by a great film”

The doll-like appearance, which captivated the entire Internet and sent us all into a frenzy, was meticulously crafted by the legendary Pat McGrath. With a waxen, glassy complexion, rosy cheeks, delicately thin eyebrows and luminous eyes, the models exuded an ethereal and otherworldly allure. According to a press release by her team, the “skin is coated in a hyper-shiny glaze, mimicking the smooth, reflective quality of glass.”

The collection encompassed a diverse assortment of garments and accessories, featuring corsets with incredibly cinched waists, padded hip silhouettes, as well as steampunk-inspired goggles and bakerboy hats, among other unique pieces. Crime appears to be a pervasive theme in the show, evident through the recurring motifs that accentuate its presence and role in Galliano’s storytelling with models donning the classic burglar eye masks and jewels stuffed into stockings in an attempt to make a quick getaway.

No stone is left unturned by Maison Margiela in their relentless pursuit of perfection, where they are always willing to go the extra mile to ensure that every detail is perfected. This dedication to detail was most vividly apparent to me when I noticed the fact that jackets had been intricately adorned with silicone to mimic a wet, rained on appearance and models were wearing leather neck pieces, enhancing the porcelain-like effect.

Although there have been equally spectacular shows in the past, the Maison Margiela artisanal show stood out to more due to the perfectly mastered cohesion between all aspects of the show. The flawless integration of the short film at the outset, coupled with the meticulous attention to detail in clothing, McGrath’s visionary makeup, the unexpected storyline and setting enabled the audience to be completely immersed in Galliano’s creative brilliance. It’s safe to say that John Galliano certainly did not disappoint.

Top looks from the Maison Marginal Spring 2024 Couture Collection

Left to right: Look 19/Look 20/Look 29/Photo credits: Maison Marginal artisanal show via Vogue runway