The men behind Victoria’s Secret

Maya Omare on 14 November 2023

Is Victoria’s Secret promotion of unrealistic body standards really all that angelic? Maya Omare follows the controversies of Victoria’s Secret to examine its rebranding endeavours.

Braverman out, Cameron in (again): Sunak’s reshuffle explained

Em O'Riley on 13 November 2023

(This article may be subject to updates as new announcements come from Downing Street)

Today (Monday 13th November), Prime Minister Rishi Sunak announced a cabinet reshuffle.

This came with hopes from No.10 to find cabinet unity and revive the government ahead of the 2024 General Election.

The headline-grabbing announcement was the return of David Cameron, who was the Conservative Prime Minister between 2010 and 2016, taking up the role of Foreign Secretary.

James Cleverly, who was the previous Foreign Secretary, has replaced Suella Braverman as Home Secretary. Braverman being sacked had been predicted by many commentators and analysts, following controversial comments made in an article for The Times last Wednesday (8th November).

In the article, Braverman characterised Israel-supporting protestors as holding “dignified vigils”, comparing this to “the pro-Palestinian movement that has mobilised tens of thousands of angry demonstrators.”. She was criticised for using polarising language and spreading division.

Braverman’s advocacy for the police using “even-handedness” was widely received as veiled language promoting a police crackdown on Palestine-supporting protestors.

She described a “left-wing bias” in how protestors are treated by police. This is despite government and police harshening their response to all protest in the 2023 Public Order Act 2023 and 2022 Police, Crime, Sentencing and Courts Act. Some consider these restrictions of protest freedoms as a direct response to protest movements that are characterised as “left-wing”, for instance environmentalist campaign group Just Stop Oil.

No.10 had asked Braverman to make changes, but she had gone ahead with her initial comments.

Her replacement by James Cleverly is unlikely to mark a big ideological shift in the role. Cleverly’s voting record, accessible via website theyworkforyou.com, reflects his similar views as part of the Conservative Right: voting for lowered corporation tax, reduction in welfare benefit spending, and crucially, stricter immigration enforcement.

New Home Secretary James Cleverly. Image: Open Government License

However, he may present a more muted media presence than Braverman who repeatedly attracted intense media attention for her controversial statements. This included her calling homelessness a “lifestyle choice” on 4th November, which attracted widespread criticism including from homelessness charity Shelter: “Let’s be very clear: Homelessness is not a lifestyle choice”.

There are whispers around Westminster that these comments were the real reason Sunak decided Braverman had to go.

The reintroduction of David Cameron to frontline politics marked the biggest surprise of the day. He will not be publicly elected as Sunak will endow him with a peerage in the House of Lords. It is not conventional for senior ministers to come from the Lords.

Concerns have been raised that Cameron would not have to answer questions asked of him because he sits in the House of Lords not the House of Commons. In response, Labour MP Chris Bryant called the appointment a “disgrace”. Plaid Cymru’s Westminster leader Liz Saville Roberts shared this sentiment, accusing the government of neglecting “democratic accountability”.

Before 2009 there was no mechanism that meant Lords who were secretaries of state were compelled to answer questions. This changed with the introduction of oral questions to Lords if the issue was under their ministerial brief, but this rule is only valid if the question comes from within the Lords itself.

Lords who are secretaries of state are not required by law to appear in front of select committees. However, in practice most attend to avoid criticism a lack of transparency and opportunity for scrutiny.

Commons Speaker Lindsay Hoyle told The Independent he was waiting for reassurance from Sunak’s team as to how Cameron would be kept accountable in office.

As well as shock, some voiced optimism and relief in response to Cameron’s instalment. His familiarity and high-profile in Britain and globally may provide some stability, breaking through the recent noise and chaos of Conservative Party politics. Speaking to The Independent Former Conservative Foreign Secretary Malcolm Rifkind welcomed the news: “It’s an inspired choice. Because he was PM for six years, deeply involved in foreign policy, he stands from a much-better informed position,”

Dutch Prime Minister Mark Rutte echoed these congratulations, posting on X (formerly known as Twitter): “Welcome back David Cameron”.

https://twitter.com/MinPres/status/1724018365147017301

In a post on social media, Labour insinuated the appointment of Cameron refuted his claims to be a “change” candidate. The opposition party labelled him “Out of Touch. Out of Ideas. Out of his Depth.”.

Comprehensive records of Cameron’s voting history may indicate how he will approach the role.

He was generally supportive of military intervention in other countries. Cameron was aware of the deployment of RAF planes to Syria despite the Commons’ express disapproval of any military intervention. He voted in favour of the UN’s use of force in Libya. Whilst this succeeded in the removal of dictator Muammar Gaddafi, foreign intervention resulting in regime change has been criticised for leaving behind a power vacuum of instability.

His Remain position in the 2016 EU referendum signals a more open attitude towards the EU. He is highly unlikely to continue Braverman’s agenda of removing the UK from the European Convention on Human Rights. However he has to contend with a wider cabinet and party that has been purged of more moderate, EU-supportive MPs. Stances on the EU are likely to cause tension within Sunak’s cabinet.

His attitudes towards Israel-Palestine have previously been sympathetic to Palestinians. In 2010 he said, “Gaza cannot and must not be allowed to remain a prison camp”.

However in 2014 there was tension in his cabinet with Liberal Democrat members of the coalition government. Cameron, and then-Foreign Secretary Phillip Hammond, did not immediately suspend weapons exports to Israel. This was despite evidence they were being used by the Israel Defence Forces (IDF) in offensives in Gaza with severe humanitarian consequences which included the killing of civilians.

Therefore, Cameron’s record on the Israel-Palestine conflict does not immediately suggest how he will act in the current war.

Other changes:

Victoria Atkins MP. Image: Open Government License

Victoria Atkins has replaced Steve Barclay as Health Secretary. Atkins has secured her first ministerial position and must now face the challenges of an NHS frequently described as nearing, or beyond, ‘breaking point’.

Steve Barclay MP. Image: Open Government License

Barclay has replaced Thérèse Coffey, the Environment Secretary, who resigned. Commentators speculated that Coffey resigned in expectation that Sunak would sack her. She faced strong criticism from environmentalists who said the government was diluting its climate pledges. The frequent release of sewage into UK waterways has been grabbed onto by critics as a symbol of Conservative failings.

The departure of Housing Minister Rachel Maclean, replaced by Lee Rowley, has raised concerns over the implication of high levels of churn in cabinet positions. Maclean was the 15th Housing Minister in 13 1/2 years. Housing Ministers fast departure from office makes a coherent strategy for the pressing housing crisis difficult to achieve. Tim Durrant, the director of the think-tank Institute for Government, raised these worries with the Financial Times. He said it mean government was more interested in “quick wins” than long-term policy achievements.

Lee Rowley MP. Image: Gov.UK

The Conservative Party Chair has also changed hands, pun intended, as Richard Holden replaces Greg Hands.

Sunak’s reshuffle is perhaps indicative of a party, moving further into its ‘teenage years’ in power, continuing to struggle with its internal identity crisis.

The churn of ministers signals the difficulty the party are experiencing in convincing the public that anything will really change.

Furthermore, Cameron’s return raises many questions as to the direction of the party: torn between its more centrist old guard and populist right. Without doubt, his return will not be unanimously popular with the party or the public.

Whilst Braverman returns to the backbenches, it is unlikely that the increasingly vocal right-wing faction of the party that she represents will retreat without a fight.

We Will Remember Them: Remembrance in 2023 

Eleanor Thompson on 12 November 2023

Every year in November we see news presenters, public figures and the public don a red poppy, signalling a period of remembrance. This poppy-wearing tradition is more than a century old – so why is it still honoured today? 

Remembrance Day takes place on the Sunday closest to the 11th of November every year (this year it is on the 12th of November). It is held in commemoration of the Armistice truce reached on the same date in 1918, signalling the end to what most historians agree was one of the bloodiest conflicts in recorded history – World War I. As this conflict was so horrifying, as well as the Second World War which involved almost every part of the globe from Britain to China and the Soviet Union to name a few, it is easy to see the scale of loss and devastation war causes, with Britannica estimating that there were between 35,000,000-60,000,000 total deaths during World War II, including innocent civilian lives. Whilst the poppy has evolved over the years, it remains a symbol for the huge loss of life in this conflict, as poppies grew in the disturbed soil in the battlefields after the war, and a way to give thought to all the people who have died in or have been affected by different wars and conflicts across the world, right up to present day.

There seems to have been a move, certainly in recent years, to highlight the inclusivity of remembrance without eulogising war or under-representing the many different countries who participate, with The British Legion stating that “remembrance does not glorify war” and that it aims to “unite people of all faiths, cultures and backgrounds”. It was the case in the past, and some argue still today, that when remembering World Wars I and II in particular; white, male and British soldiers fighting on the western front in France and Belgium were overrepresented and dominated the narrative in the media and in education. Efforts in the past few years to diversify this view and cultivate a more multi-dimensional, developed understanding of these conflicts will hopefully continue, such as moves to decolonise the curriculum and the telling of wartime stories of those previously forgotten or neglected in remembrance.  

Josh Losh put forward in his essay ‘Britain’s Abandoned Black Soldiers’ that in World War II, “Britain paid its soldiers not only according to their rank and length of service but also their ethnicity”, and it is information such as this which should be remembered, moving away from a narrative that erases certain groups of people from history and embracing the raw facts of war and the hard experiences of every individual. Learning about personal stories from individuals, such as Hélène Podliasky, who led a resistance of nine women to escape a Nazi death march in 1945, are just as important as the broader picture, with 2.6 million Indian troops fighting in World War II. Teaching, talking and learning about diverse and widespread conflicts, such as this one, and its impact on people that are still alive today, is not only essential in understanding the importance of remembrance in 2023, but also for its continuation. 

Remembrance also exists as a way for people nowadays to learn from humanity’s biggest devastations and not let these horrors happen again. However, today there are still many conflicts going on all around the world and causing mass desolation. The one that is dominating social media right now is the ongoing Israeli-Palestinian conflict, in which over ten thousand civilians in the Gaza strip have been and are being brutally killed, including children. People doing what they can to stop and prevent horrors like this from happening is so important, and not letting history keep on repeating itself time and time again is crucial in the act of remembrance.  

Every year on the 11th of November at 11am, cannons are fired, trumpets are played, and a two-minute silence commences. Whilst for some people doing this would be almost impossible, especially in lines of work such as urgent care, these two-minutes are there to allow people to have a quiet moment of reflection and a moment to remember the sacrifices made by so many, and the suffering endured by millions. 

“Cinematic, Honest, Expressive”: Gotts Street Park on Their New Album

Arlo Taylor-Osmond on 11 November 2023 

Written by Arlo Taylor-Osmond
Edited by Eve Moat

The Gryphon caught up with Gotts Street Park to hear about the release of their debut album, its subsequent UK tour, and the influence of Leeds on their music.

“There’s a bit more of a bounce in the step in some of the tunes and a bit more variation in mood and atmosphere. Hopefully, the album will be a little bit of a journey for 40 minutes…for a few people who might want to sit and listen from start to finish.”

I’m touched by the modesty of Joe Harris, the guitarist of Gotts Street Park, as he tells me over the phone what people can expect from On The Inside. It’s a humble, understated tone to describe a 12-track LP that has been several years in the making for Gotts Street Park, and it bears similarity to the band’s easy-going attitude to collaboration as well. “We don’t chase things, it seems to work best just to be open to opportunities and see what happens”, Joe explains, when talking about the possibility of writing a film score.

Alongside him in the band is Josh Crocker (bass, production) and Tom Henry (keys). They’ve been picking up some serious pace since their formation in Leeds, where the band still resides. As young people, their mutual love of jamming and improvisation served as the catalyst for what quickly developed into a brilliant creative partnership, now with over 65 million Spotify plays to their credit. On the 18th November, they return to Leeds in the culmination of their first extensive UK tour, at Belgrave Music Hall.

On The Inside is a gorgeous, textured creation that dances slow with the brain. Collaborations with some of jazz, soul and R&B’s most exciting emerging voices feature alongside a variety of instrumental tracks, some of which are more experimental than those with vocals on. With such a detailed and delicately woven soundscape, several listens of this album may yield new discoveries of its vast depths, paths, and pockets.

Testament to their versatility as a band, On The Inside has features from South London rapper ENNY, as well as Leeds-based flute player Parthenope. Recording with artists from different genres, their music is remarkably difficult to pinpoint to a specific category of jazz, funk, hip-hop or soul. Joe told me that he, personally, isn’t concerned with compartmentalising it. “Generally, when people want to know it’s so they can market it or put it in a box you know, and that doesn’t really bother me. I definitely don’t have a desire to label it any way or the other.” He did mention the term “cinematic” though. When listening to the peaks and troughs of ‘Strawberry Dream’ that are a story in themselves, for example, it makes sense that the band are interested in film scoring. While on this topic, I had to ask Joe what kind of movie would have On The Inside as its soundtrack: “Something like Wim Wenders shootin’ a film in Leeds with an eccentric cast of young creatives. That’s kind of a nod to Ry Cooder, not that I’d compare myself but just that I love his work with Wim Wenders.”

It does feel right though. In Paris, Texas (1984), the lonesome sounds of Cooder’s slide-guitar score perfectly mirror the existential journey of Travis Henderson. Equally, it’s not hard to imagine the kinds of characters that might walk alongside the mean-step of ‘Fuego’, for example. The variety of imagery that song evokes is rich and fruitful. “You know with ‘Fuego’, we had nowhere near enough budget to do even like a visual or anything. They asked what we wanted for the visual and I was like, “we need to get some 70s cars and do like an old school police chase. It sounds like a car chase tune to me that one! Some cool mustangs going on…I don’t know, whatever the 70s versions are (laughs).” I don’t know cars.”

Instrumentals like ‘Fuego’ are where GSP excel on the new album, reminding listeners of the band’s other identity as session musicians. When asked about their inspirations, Joe told me that he likes a lot of what Donny Hathaway was doing. “You can hear it for me just in the one live album.” Of course, Donny Hathaway composed arrangements for singers like Curtis Mayfield and Aretha Franklin. Having written for the likes of Kali Uchis, Yellow Days and Mabel, Gotts Street Park are perhaps beginning to adopt a similar ubiquity in their corner of the industry.

They also find that this sort of collaboration works best when you embrace the playful process of simply having a jam in the studio. Joe explained that him and Tom met studying Jazz at Leeds College of Music (now Leeds Conservatoire), so both of them are kind of improvisers. “Improvisation is what I love the most in general. In that sense, it’s very similar to just living life. You know, just letting what happens, happen…and reacting, and doing your best in any given situation! Jamming is very aligned with that kind of vibe.”

If that doesn’t convince you that life imitates art, I don’t know what will. Joe feels that it’s easy to get into the scrutinous attitude where you’re thinking, “We’re gonna compose this feel and it needs to sound just like this and do this…” He believes in spontaneity and seeing what comes up in the moment.

Leeds may have had an influence in developing this attitude, with its amalgamation of jam nights and musical talent in general. “There was a night called The Spinoff which was playing people like Tommy Evans, who was a drummer who went on to do Submotion Orchestra, Gentleman’s Dub Club, Outlook Orchestra. I was going to Subdub and Exodus, and exploring that side, experiencing soundsystems. Leeds has got just amazing musicians in every generation and every little pocket and corner of the culture – Whether it be like the Indian music that was happening and the classical stuff that I got really into, or the Caribbean guys doing their thing more like Chapeltown way, or the students in college!”

It’s a beautiful snapshot of music in our city. As my formal questions drew to a close, I couldn’t help but ask a few questions that aren’t as professional as the others.

Arlo: As the nosy Leeds student I am, I’ve got to ask…did you guys live in Hyde Park as students as well? Or were you more of a Headingley/Woodhouse kind of lot?

Joe: From when I was 16, until when I was like 30 nearly, I lived in Woodhouse. Tom lived in Woodhouse with us for a few years as well. But I used to go in Hyde Park all the time…the house parties were absolutely epic. Every weekend we’d grab like 8 tinnies and just walk around Hyde Park listening. You’d just hear a party, go into the basement and 90% of the time it’s like, “how’s it going mate, nice to meet you, yeah come in”. Then there’s just people having a rave basically. That was every weekend.

Joe was happy to hear that it hasn’t changed much. I left him to his family to relax, on the night before the band’s new album hits the world.

Released on 13th October 2023, On The Inside is streaming on all platforms now.

Catch Gotts Street Park at Belgrave Music Hall on the 18th November 2023.

Image Credit: Gotts Street Park

Dua Lipa is the New Houdini: You’ll Have to Catch Her Quick

Elsie Oulton on 11 November 2023 

Written by Elsie Oulton
Edited by Eve Moat

New hair colour = new album campaign. Come one folks, we know the drill. As soon as Dua Lipa donned those luscious red locks in an Instagram post in mid-October, we’ve known something’s been a’ brewin. The result is the immaculate, club banger ‘Houdini’, which was released today.

Soon after a similar occurrence in late 2019, when a blonde barnet made its debut alongside a string-drenched sample of ‘Don’t Start Now’, the pandemic hit and Lipa was forced to rethink everything planned for the release of her sophmore record Future Nostalgia. In the first week of the national lockdown, she was frantically creating at-home performances and music videos, whilst navigating the new way of doing press at the time – entirely on zoom. The album shot to the top of the charts and a disco record was, surprisingly, exactly what people needed for some Covid escapism (much like Jessie Ware’s What’s Your Pleasure, released in May of that year). However this time, she’s doing properly, and she’s doing it in person. Red hair n all.

The star held a launch party last night at the English National Ballet in London, giving fans the “first play on earth”, alongside a screening of the music video. And good god- the track is glorious. Co- produced by Tame Impala’s Kevin Parker and Danny Harle (PC music), pounding basslines envelop Lipa’s luscious vocals, with glimmering synths dancing over the top. Lyrically, Lipa commands attention from a romantic interest, channeling the titular escapologist and whilst warning them she could vanish at any given moment. Although not the most profound lyrical content in her catalogue, she is incredibly unbothered and assertive; “it’s your moment baby, don’t let it slip”, elevating the concept with both her attitude and ever-strengthening voice.

Following the release of Future Nostalgia, Lipa shot to stratospheric levels of fame and efficiency; starting her cultural newsletter and podcast Service 95, as well as countless collaborations, with Elton John to name but one, and topping the charts this summer with Barbie’s theme song ‘Dance the Night’. As refreshing as it is to see a pop star harness their influence in a variety of ways, it’s thrilling she’s back to music. ‘Houdini’ ushers in this new era with confidence and classic Lipa sophistication and is a promising indication of what’s to come. Catch her if you can.